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How to
Burnout! |
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If you plan to
do a burnout here is how it works. With your back tire just on the edge of the
wet area, bike pointed straight, grab the front brake and lock the front wheel.
Lift your weight off of the seat and lock the bike between your thighs. Now rev
it up to about 7,000 RPM and holding the brake and bike FIRMLY, drop the clutch.
The tire should break lose and begin spinning maintain the revs at between
6,000 to 8,000 RPM. When you can see the smoke rising (10 to 15 seconds) then
put your weight back on the seat and lighten up on the brakes enough to allow
the bike to slowly move forward about three feet. Disengage the clutch. And stop
the bike. |
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The
Time Slip |
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The time slip usually has the time and date of the run, your
number, plus your RT, 60 ft ET, 330ft ET, 1/8 mile ET, 1/8 mile M.P.H., 1000 ft
ET, (possibly your 1000 ft MPH), 1/4 mile ET, 1/4 mile MPH and the finish
margin. The finish margin shows in seconds how far ahead the winner was.
RT
stands for reaction time. It is the measure of time from the moment the green
light goes on and when you launch your bike. ET stands for Elapsed Time, it
begins the moment you launch your bike, it excludes your reaction time in
other words whether you have a good or bad RT makes no difference to your ET.
For example, you could wait for fifteen seconds after the green light goes on
before you launch, and your time slip would have a 15 second RT and an 11.65 ET
and not a 26.65 second ET.
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Most
Important |
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Most
of all stay safe and have fun! There is no need to try to earn bragging rights
or seek to set records when you are just getting started. Practice makes
perfect and proficiency will come with time. Leave your pride at home and DO NOT
try to impress the crowd or your competition. First Rule STAY SAFE and then
have fun Lots of Fun! |

The Tree
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How to Drag Racing a Harley Davidson
V-Rod!
By Rob Lewis - AKA
the UPSMAN
So,
you want to experience drag racing your Harley Davidson V-Rod, but you aren't
quite sure what's involved? You've come to the right spot. We are going to do a
step by step walk through of a run at the track, so that you can understand what
is involved, how to prepare, what is needed, how to do it safely and have
some great fun!
Preparation:
First things first, preparing your V-rod. Before making the trip to the track,
be sure your bike is in safe and good running condition. Check to make sure
that all of your nuts and bolts are on and tight. Make sure your tires are in good condition
and properly inflated .Also, check that the bike doesn't have any leaks from the
engine, transmission, radiator, etc.. The reason for this is because if the
starter thinks that your bike is leaking fluid, he will back you off from a run
and ask you to repair the leak before coming back for to run. Another good idea
is to make sure your bike is clean (top and bottom) so that when you leave the
starting line your bike doesn't dump any foreign debris. A good once over
of your bike is always a good idea before you head to the track. Doing all of
this will not only help you to get more runs, but your fellow racers as well.
Most of these instructions were written with a stock street VRod in mind. If
you have a modified scooter, from mild to wild, check the tracks regulations.
Also, you need to check to see if there are any special safety requirements at
the track that you will race common requirements include, leathers, boots, a
Snell 2000 approved full face helmet and a tether kill switch on the bike. |
At the Track:
Pitting:
Now it is time to go to the track. Many riders prefer to trailer in, with plenty
of room for tools, shelter in the event of rain and accommodations to charge
clothes and hang out. Another option for the street worthy is to ride to
the track, many street riders favorite way to race. When you arrive at the track
there is usually a booth where you will need to sign a liability waiver and pay
($20 to $30 typically). Note: This is an enter at your own risk full release of
liability and your insurance for your bike probably has waivers - so realize
that you are on
your own. Now that you have paid, you will receive a tech card. It is time to enter
the track keep your tech card in a secure place. Now proceed into the pit
area. Please keep in mind the low mph speed limit in the pits, typically 5 or 10
MPH. Also, burnouts, dry hops, or other displays of your racing prowess are
usually not allowed in the pit area and may be considered cause for an early
departure. Ask for direction to the bike pits or drive around and look for where
there are some bikes parked, find an open space and park. After you've parked,
fill out your tech card. Be sure that it is complete and written legibly. This
is also a good time to remove anything you may want off of the bike for racing
such as mirrors. and to adjust your tire pressure 28PSI is a good starting
point for rear tire pressures - front at standard pressure.
Tech
Inspection:
Now it is time to go for technical inspection also called getting teched or teched-in.
Introduce yourself to your neighbors in the pit. Dont be afraid to share that
this is your first time, if so. Racers are a close group and you will likely
find a helpful friend to show you the ropes. Ask one of the regulars where the
tech area is and if there is anything you need to know about their process. Put
your tech card in your helmet or somewhere else where you won't lose it. Tech
inspections vary from one track to another. It can range from a simple visual
glimpse to see if your bike appears safe to feeling like your bike is being put
under a microscope. Take your riding gear such as leather jacket, pants, helmet, gloves
and boots with you as these are often required to pass the tech inspection,
especially for someone not a regular at the track. Note: The regulars often have
privileges that you will eventually earn for example they may pass tech almost
sight unseen as their machines, safety gear, maintenance record etc are well
known by the track officials. Seniority has its privileges

Waiting to
Run: Now relax in the pits, meet new
friends, grab a burger and pay attention to the announcer. You can also
get someone to tell you about the general procedures and run order for the various classes.
Some of your new friends that are track veterans are good for this. Typically, the announcer will
start calling bikes to the staging lanes about 10-15 minutes before racing is
supposed to start. Once you hear the call for the bikes, head to the staging
lanes with your bike, safety gear and tech card if required. Pay attention to
the announcer, as he will usually let you now which lanes are being used for the
bike class. Once
in the staging lanes a track employee will be around to pick up your tech card
and put your number on your bike. You can also buy temporary numbers from a
hardware store if you prefer it to the water-based shoe polish that the tracks
tend to use these numbers can also be used later for dial-in time required for
racing.
Staging
Lanes: Anytime
your bike is in the staging lanes you need to there as well. Do not leave
your bike unattended in the staging lanes. When it is time to run a staging
director will begin directing bikes to the track. Once you near the front of the
lanes pay attention to the staging director, do not leave the lanes until he has
instructed you to do so. He will motion to you which lane of the track to use.
It is important that your VRod is warmed up prior to racing as the ECM will
lower the rev limiter if the engine is cold about 5 minutes will do the trick
Also the rev limiter will be lower for 40 second after starting the VRod even
if it is warm. |

Racing:
Time
to run:
When you
pull onto the track you do not have to drive through the water box The preferred
method is to drive around it. This will keep your front tire dry important in
the burnout and pre-staging routine. If you drive around the water and you plan
to do a burnout then you will need to back your bike into the water be sure
that it is aligned properly straight down the track. The water box man will
motion you to start your burnout once he has determined that the pair of bikes
in front of you has made it sufficiently down the track. Do not start your
burnout until instructed to do so.
Now this is
where opinions differ greatly. Some people feel that with a regular set of street
tires, little or no burnout is required. Others prefer a light 'em up and
with good smoky burnout. Really it is up to you. If you plan to do a burnout
then it is time to light them up. Whether you chose to do a burn out or not it
is a good idea to do what is called a dry hop to knock any debris off of your
tires. To do this, pull the bike forward to about half way between the water box
and the staging area pointed straight ahead and in the dull appearing inside tire
track. Now rev it up to about 6,000 RPM and drop the clutch sort of like you
are rehearsing your launch. This should be limited to a quick jump, about 5 feet
in all disengage the clutch and stop the bike.
Pre-Staging: Once
you have completed your burnout and dry hop then watch the starter. If he is
holding his hands out with his palms flat towards you, stop and wait for him to
motion you towards the starting line. Pull forward in the inside tire track
marks with your V-Rod pointed straight, perfectly aligned down the track. Note:
Avoid the slippery center of the track the tire tracks have lots of sticky
rubber on the track from the cars. As you approach the starting line watch the
Christmas tree. On the top of the tree on each side there are four yellow light
bulbs (as pictured below), the upper most set of lights is the pre-stage lights.
Slowly creep forward until you light the first set of little yellow bulbs on the
top of the tree. This is called pre-stage and indicates that you are only about
6 inches away from
the stage beams. If your opponent has not lit his pre-stage,
then patiently wait until he does.

Staging: OK take a deep breath and
clear your mind.
The game is about to get going and you need to be ready to play. Lower your face-shield, and begin to
slowly creep forward a couple of inches. You should be holding your clutch
slightly beyond the point where it will drag. Stop and turn the throttle to your
desired launch rev point; 6,000RPM works well, at least for experienced racers.
(Note: If this is your first time you may want to launch at 4,000 RPM
a safer approach you can gradually raise the launch revs as you become
comfortable) Now SLOWLY creep forward until the second set of little bulbs comes
on. Position your feet forward near the pegs, lightly balancing the bike on your
toes and leaning slightly forward. You are now staged, with your engine
roaring at a high RPM and you are seconds from launch. The starting sequence on
the tree will begin about a second after both riders are staged.
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Stage -
3,2,1....LAUNCH!
Now
as your engine roars, your heart beating rapidly, adrenaline flowing, your mouth
may be dry and your breathing stopped, as you wait for the ambers on the tree to
start to count down. There are three yellows, which will sequentially light in
.5 second interval. Of course the idea is to leave just as the green light comes
on, resulting in a perfect reaction time. If you wait until the green light
comes on you will have a very slow reaction time. Generally speaking you will
want to release the clutch when the third yellow bulb comes on, as it takes
about a half second for a V-Rod to get rolling. With practice you will learn
the perfect time to release the clutch to get as close as possible to a perfect
light. Again, this takes practice. Launching the V-Rod is usually simple just
release the clutch and turn the throttle. If the traction is good, you should
leave straight and hard. If not then your skills and instincts will be needed to
get it straightened up SAFELY.
And
the race is on..... SHIFT, SHIFT, SHIFT.... TUCK IN and FLY! -All right,
you've left the starting line and now you are barreling down the track at a high
rate of acceleration. You must lift your feet IMMEDIATELY as you have only a
couple of brief seconds and about 75 feet until you will need to shift to
second.. If you have a shift light, be prepared to shift as soon as the bulb
lights as the engine is racing toward redline quickly. If not, then you need to
watch the tachometer or speedometer (8,500RPM or about 50MPH) Shifting can be
accomplished by quickly fanning the clutch hitting the shift lever at full
throttle. This is called power shifting. Now you have another three seconds and
about 250 feet or so until you need to repeat this process and shift into third.
Time to tuck as you are approaching mid track and soon to be rolling north of
100MPH, the wind is picking up rapidly. Repeat your shift into fourth which should take you through the finish with stock 28/72
gearing - somewhere between 110 and 115 MPH.. As you approach the end of the quarter mile you will see a set of two
lines and possibly orange cones or other markers. This is where they are
measuring your time and speed at the end of the race. Full throttle until you
pass the second line and markers and stay down in your tucked position crawling
into the paint to reduce wind resistance..
WHOA!
COWBOY - Ya gotta stop the thing.... After you pass the quarter-mile stripe
it's time to slow down and make one of the turn offs. To avoid becoming a human
parachute hold stay tucked into until you have slowed down to a reasonable
speed. Do not become too aggressive with the brakes, remember you just flushed a
gallon of adrenaline through your veins and an agile touch is not instinctive at
this moment. The first turn off is
sometimes about 100 feet past the quarter-mile stripe and should only be used if
you are had problems and are going pretty slow.. A second turn off is usually about half way down the shut down
area and is used by slower cars and bikes. Then there is typically a third and
final turn off. Prior to your run it is a good idea to ask one of the regulars
about the top end of the track, how much room there is and how many turn offs so
that you know what to expect and how aggressive you need to be with the brakes.
Typically there will be plenty of room to slow down if the track is used by fast
drag racing cars and bikes. What ever you do, never turn around on the track
and head back towards the starting line. This is a big no-no. Also, never cross
the centerline until the very end when exiting onto the return road. Always be
aware of the position of the competition if you need to
crossed the lane at the end to enter the return road.
Return to the Pits - Ok, now you are headed back to the pit area on the
return road. It's a good idea to keep your speed under 25 M.P.H. while on the
return road. At most tracks along the return road there will be someone
standing, or in a little shack, the ET shack. This is where you pickup a small
piece of paper, called an ET or time slip, with all of the information from your
run. Now you can either return to the staging lanes for another run (if it's a
test & tune event) or go back to your pit area. Just keep in mind the speed
limit in the pit area is probably 5 or 10MPH and watch for cars/people moving
around in the pits. Park your bike, remove your gear, take a deep breath,
and congratulation you have just completed your first pass of the day. You
have made it safe and sound, your heart is probably still throbbing, hands may
be shaking a bit from that rush of adrenaline and you have an elated feeling
that will fill you with anticipation as you wait for your next run. As you
calm down a bit you can study your time slip and be ready to compare notes and
possibly get a few pointers from some of the veterans.... this is how you will
become proficient and be part of a tradition of sharing race experience and
enthusiasm - one racer to another!
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